Piazza Navona is shaped like a Roman running track because it is one — Domitian built the stadium here in the 1st century, and the oval never changed. Eighteen centuries later that shape is propping up a Max Mara ad the size of a church, and a gull's claimed the head of the marble Triton underneath it, unbothered by either the ad or the emperor. RR
Della Palma says it has 150 flavors. I can only vouch for the chocolate section, which takes up half the counter: Nutella, Rocher, orange, strawberry, and a Dubai chocolate, because the internet got in here too. Choosing takes longer than eating. RR
Leila has wheels, a pink nameplate and two escorts. Nobody is in a hurry; the dog sets the pace. Rome treats its dogs the way it treats its children: waved through, fussed over, and handed the whole street. Hers is the only vehicle on this road with its name on
The Swiss Guard arrived in 1506: 150 mercenaries hired by Pope Julius II because Swiss soldiers were considered among the best in Europe. The striped uniform is often credited to Michelangelo, but that's a myth. It dates to the early 1900s, in the colors of the Della Rovere
Rome has been Italy's capital only since 1871, after Turin and then Florence had a turn. The city's official name now carries the job title: Roma Capitale, stenciled onto a crowd barrier. Behind it, S.P.Q.R. — Senatus Populusque Romanus, "the Senate and People