Wash day in Trastevere. A leopard-print legging, a tracksuit and a row of T-shirts hang between two windows. Plenty of Italians own a dryer and still use the window. The sun is free, and everyone on the street gets to see whose gym kit it is. RR
The square is named for Lauro de Bosis, the poet who in 1931 flew over Rome dropping 400,000 anti-Fascist leaflets. A fine name for a place built as a Fascist academy of physical education, now home to the Italian Olympic Committee, hence the rings. Berlin's 1936
Monte dei Paschi began in 1472 as a charity pawn shop: you left a coat, got a loan, paid a little interest, and if the coat was sold for more than you owed, you got the difference. Commercial lenders charged 40% or more. In 2026 it is fighting off a
Paradiso sul Mare was built in 1924 to be Anzio's casino. It never opened as one. It became a film set instead: Fellini used it as the Grand Hotel in Amarcord, and The Talented Mr. Ripley turned it into a jazz festival in Sanremo. A casino that never
Rome has absorbed Greeks, Goths, Napoleon and tourists, so a few parakeets were never going to be a problem. Two are landing on this magnolia, and more are hidden in it. Bright green, and still nearly impossible to photograph, unlike the pigeons, who pose for anyone. They're believed